Paying attention to the details of your wallaby fence will ensure the fence is effective. Below are some examples to make sure your investment works.
Wallaby Gates (746Kb)
Fence wing out into open ground or along roadside: Wallabies have worn a track on the main fence but not found their way up the wing that is about 75 metres long out into the open paddock. Eventually wallabies will find their way around the end of the wing. Shooting techniques such as a one-way wallaby gate in this corner will then need to be employed.
Fence Ends are one point where wallabies can gain access to pasture or crop areas. It may be possible to add a wallaby gate near the fence end with a wing extension at an appropriate right angle to the fence. Wallabies may use the gate in preference to moving around the fence end.
Periodically the gate can be closed during the night or made one way while the wallabies are in the paddock. they can then be shot in the corner as they try to return to the bush.
The diagram below offers shows detailed construction of the fence end wing.
Diagram from the book Wallaby Proof Fencing: A Planning guide for Tasmanian Primary Producers, University of Tasmania 2010
Photo: Bruce Dolbey
Keep the mesh in contact with the firm, level base you have created. This footer/apron is too loose near a corner and it has lifted from the ground. This needs to be fixed.
Finish off the footer/apron at the corners with an anchor to avoid bad contact of the mesh with the ground.
Pay attention to the details to ensure there are no gaps and keep mesh in contact with ground. Mistakes like this gap means the fence won't work.
Pay attention to the tension of the mesh. If the mesh is too tight it can lose contact with the ground through hollows.
A peg with a slot to hold the mesh down in contact with the ground will save tying with wire. A well prepared route with a firm level base; and grass/vegetation growing over the footer mesh, will reduce the need for pegs.